SJ’s Surf Forecast for the SW

Forecast last updated at 08:59 Wednesday 16th August 2017
[Don’t forget to look at this forecast the day before you go beach for the latest, as things can often change!]

The Rest Of The Week:
‘Waves on the horizon for Wednesday onwards.’
Sunrise and sunset – 06:15 and 20:35
Twilight starts and ends – 05:35 and 21:10
Midday – 13:25
Length of day – 14:20
Offshore Sea Temp approx – 16.5C / 61.5F

Monday 14th:
‘There’ll be a weak and frustrating wave on the North that’ll lack any va-va-voom. However at least it’ll be clean(ish), and will produce enough foam for the surf schools and beginners.’
Swell – (i) Weak SW going WSW-SW
Wind – Light-Medium S
Weather – Overcast with rain showers.
North Coast – 1-3ft (Knee-Waisthigh)
South Coast – 1-3ft (Knee-Waisthigh)
Tides – 10:14 High, 16:37 Low

Tuesday 15th:
‘If you go down to the seaside today, you’ll be in for a big surprise (not). Nada enchilada! @flatski @dribble ‘
Swell – (i) Weak W-WSW going W
Wind – Light+ W
Weather – Bright and sunny day.
North Coast – 1ft going 1-2ft (Kneehigh)
South Coast – Flat
Tides – 11:11 High, 17:38 Low

Wednesday 16th:
‘Crikey! Waves ahoy!!! Decent (as far as Summer goes) cleanish wave for the North. Due to the ‘skewed’ swell direction though, sheltered spots on the North won’t fire – the main Westerly facing spots should be on though.’
Swell – (i) Weak W-WSW going SW
Wind – Medium S going S-SW
Weather – Overcast with rain showers expected by afternoon or evening.
North Coast – 3ft (Waisthigh) going 4ft (Chesthigh)
South Coast – 1-3ft (Knee-Waisthigh) going 2-4ft (Waisthigh)
Tides – 06:17 Low, 12:24 High, 19:00 Low (Neap tides)

Thursday 17th:
‘Sheltered spots a la carte. Should increase in size towards low tide in the evening.’
Swell – (i) Weak WSW-SW going WSW
Wind – Light-Medium WSW-SW
Weather – Cloudy start, but soon turning bright and sunny,. Chance of light rain showers.
North Coast – 3ft (Waisthigh) going 4ft (Chesthigh)
South Coast – 1-3ft (Knee-Waisthigh)
Tides – 07:44 Low, 13:45 High, 20:29 Low (Neap tides)

Friday 18th:
‘Most of the North will be blown-out. However if you’re up for adventure, then seek and ye shall find – make note of tide times though so you don’t end up on shore dumps or reefs ‘elsewhere’ ‘
Swell – (i) OK W going W-WNW
Wind – Medium W-WSW going W
Weather – Bright and sunny. Windy.
North Coast – 6ft (Headhigh)
South Coast – 3ft (Waisthigh)
Tides – 09:04 Low, 15:02 High

Weekend Summary:
‘A weekend of two halves. Nothing great, but an OK (albeit small) wave for Sunday should be found.’

Saturday 19th:
‘Onshore messy surf on the North, and too small for the south to work. Winds will lighten towards the end of the day.’
Swell – (i) OK W-WNW going W
Wind – Light-Medium WNW going Light+ W
Weather – Some cloud, but plenty of bright sunny spells.
North Coast – 5ft (Shoulderhigh) going 3-4ft (Waist-Chesthigh)
South Coast – 1-2ft (Kneehigh)
Tides – 10:09 Low, 16:08 High

Sunday 20th:
‘A new long-period swell will push through later on in the day which should help the wave size to jump – beware of sneaker sets creeping in as the waves double up!! North coast should work an OK wave by high-tide late afternoon – semi-sheltered spots will be the break of choice.’
Swell – (i) Weak W
Wind – Medium WSW-SW
Weather – Bright and sunny day.
North Coast – 3-4ft (Waist-Chesthigh) going 6ft (Headhigh)
South Coast – 1-2ft (Kneehigh)
Tides – 11:03 Low, 17:03 High

Early Next Week:
‘Signs are consistently showing a ‘blocking’ high pressure moving in that will bump ex-hurricane ‘Gert’ up North towards the Shetland islands – and even then it will be a very weak almost non-existent low pressure system. For us in the South-West we’re likely to get good Summery weather and a cool/refreshing Northerly wind. As for the surf, there’s nothing to get excited about – there’s a small wave expected with a faint/small amount of long period stuff thrown in on Monday, but nothing to write home about. So onshore messy waves expected :-(‘

The scale for measuring conditions:

0-1ft – Unridable/Flat
1-2ft – Kneehigh
3ft – Waisthigh
4-5ft – Chest/Shoulderhigh
6ft – Headhigh
6-8ft = 1-1.5x Overhead
8-10ft = 1.5x Overhead
10-12ft = 2x Overhead
Please Note!

Wave height predictions are based on the larger breaks on both coasts such as Fistral and Croyde for the North, and Praa Sands and Bantham for the South.

Wave height is measured from the front of the wave, and 6ft would usually mean a ‘head-high’ wave.

Try and use some ‘local’ knowledge about what the wave sizes will be elsewhere. For example the Newquay Bay area is generally 1/3 to 3/4 the size of Fistral, increasing the further up the bay you go from Towan to Lusty Glaze, and that it will be clean on a W wind at ‘harbour left’ at Towan at mid-tide’ for example.

Tide times are based on Newquay.

Stay Stoked!
SJ